If you suffer from acne, chances are you have spent a small fortune trying out acne treatments and products that claim to “really work”. It’s not wrong to fall for these claims, trust me I have been there! ….Again and again.
Going back a few years as a pharmacy student there were a number of contributing factors to my adult acne. These included stress, my awful student diet, and probably hormones flying left, right and centre.
I desperately began looking for answers for the quickest fix but it seemed that I was just pouring money away (I’m talking over £1000) and nothing was happening, the more money I wasted on a rubbish product the more frustrated I became with finding one that worked.
After specialising in dermatology as a pharmacist 8 years later, it became so clear as to why my acne would not go away.
In this post I am going to share 5 things that I wish I could go back and tell myself whenever I asked myself “Why won’t my acne go away?”
1. You Don’t Understand Your Acne
One of the biggest issues with acne sufferers (and with my own acne) is that we don’t understand our acne.
I see people daily who suffer from acne and they don’t understand what causes it, why it flares up, and why it is worse on some days compared to others.
So to understand our acne and treat it let’s go into some science. Acne tends to occur around puberty when the sebaceous glands, which produce sebum, start functioning. When too much sebum is produced, the oil can clog up pores and hair follicles. This attracts bacteria, which leads to acne.
So the answer may seem simple; Clean your face more to reduce the oil.
Unfortunately this is not the case; over washing can be just as bad as not cleaning at all because the skin will become dry and this triggers a response for our skin to produce even more oil and contrary to common belief, acne is not caused by poor hygiene.
Greasy foods, chocolate, and dairy don’t cause acne, but certain foods can provoke it. So if you feel that you are doing everything in terms of your skin care routine but your skin isn’t clearing up, you should take a look at your diet. Dairy and greasy foods in particular are known to cause problems with acne sufferers.
Keeping a food diary helped me figure out that my acne would be worse on the mornings where I had drank a hot chocolate the day before, switching from cow’s milk to coconut milk which has a lower glycaemic load helped to stop breakouts.
2. You Are Not Using The Correct Treatment or Product
As a pharmacist, I am going to begin with the products that are backed by scientific research and evidence that are prescribed regularly in medical practice.
When trying to treat acne using non-prescription treatments, there are three main options.
- Benzoyl peroxide
- Azealic Acid
- Salicylic Acid
1. Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl peroxide works as an antiseptic to reduce the number of bacteria on the surface of your skin which can later lead to a break out. It comes as a wash and gel and can be irritating to the skin to begin with. It is recommended to start with small quantities and then increase the amount being used.
They are sold as the brand names Acnecide or Quinoderm (which is a combination product of benzoyl peroxide and an anti-microbial).
2. Azealic Acid
Azealic Acid has antimicrobial properties, it clear skin by killing the bacteria that infect pores and by decreasing production of keratin, keratin is a natural substance that can lead to the development of acne. This calms the skin and reduces redness and inflammation. It is also often used for pigmentation and dark marks that are left by acne.
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster £37
3.Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid is an amazing exfoliant, this means that it works by cleaning pores and clogged follicles of excess sebum and oil. It is derived from aspirin, (you may have heard of putting crushed aspirin on a breakout).
Murad
Blemish Control Clarifying Cream Cleanser £30
3. You Are Overusing Products
When it comes to treating acne, less can often be more. It is important not to mix products that may interact with one another, this can lead to a reaction and actually worsen the skin. Overusing products may leave you in a position where you are not only trying to cure your acne but having to try and settle inflammation and any scarring the products have caused.
Once you get into a good skin care routine and start seeing benefit from an ingredient, it can be tempting to start overusing. Do not use a salicylic acid cleanser and then continue with a salicylic pad and then a serum that contains AHA’s.
You should only be using either benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid at one time, and these should never be used with Retinol containing products.
4. You Don’t Stick Long Enough to a Regimen
Patience and having the long term goal in mind is key. Acne treatments can take 6-8 weeks to show signs of improvement.
It is also important to remember that some treatments may cause mild irritation at the start of treatment, this is normal depending on the extent of the irritation and the product being used.
Waiting to see an over night miracle unfortunately is just not going to happen no matter what dreams the latest instagram products tries to sell you. So set your expectations correctly by knowing that it will take a few weeks but it will be well worth the time and effort.
It is also important to remember to maintain your treatment after you have got the results you want, stopping all at once can is more likely flare up your acne again, taper down slowly before you stop and even then maintain good habits; no make up to bed, drinking enough water and so forth.
5.You Need to See a Specialist
Some types of acne unfortunealy cannot be cured with over the counter products.
It is important to see a health care professional when;
- Your acne is not clearing with over the counter products
- Your acne is having a negative effect on your mental well-being
- Your acne is leaving behind scars or marks (pigmentation)
- You are not sure that your out breaks are actually acne
There are prescription-strength creams that can work a lot quicker at wiping out acne, anti-biotics or other medication may also be needed as part of your treatment plan.
Adult women tend to suffer from more acne flare-ups than adult men, whereas the opposite is true for teenagers, this is due to hormones hence some birth control pills are often a good option to clear acne. (This is not true for all birth control pills, some can actually make it worse).
Also check out the post on THE BEST WAY TO CLEAN MAKEUP BRUSHES TO AVOID BREAKOUTS
