In this post we will discuss the different types of peptides, their benefits in skincare and if they are worth using in your skincare peptides
What Are Peptides?
What are peptides in skincare? Now let’s really go back to basics, our skin cells are made of proteins, collagen and elastin are two examples. These proteins are made up of long chains of amino acids which are called peptides. When you have two amino acids joined together they form a peptide and when you have three they are called a tripeptide. When you have 50 or more this is called a polypeptide.
So it is clear that peptides play a big role in collagen and elastin production and therefore have a big part in anti-aging.
Peptides In Skincare
Peptides in skincare mimic the behavior of your natural peptides. They are trying to do the same role that your own bodies proteins do.
Peptides work in different ways to keep skin healthy, to repair damaged skin cells and replace old skincells.
Let’s say you have injured your hand. Peptides signals the skin to switch to the repairing mode and fire up some growth hormones which repair the damaged tissue.
Peptides in skincare have anti-ageing properties as they mimic the body’s process of stimulating collagen.
re and each peptide has its own mechanism of action. Keep reading to learn more.
Which Peptides Are Best For Skin?
1. Signal Peptides
Signal peptides stimulate collagen production. They trigger the process of new collagen formation. They also protect the existing collagen.
Collagen is a key player in keeping the skin plump, radiant and youthful making signal peptides the most important peptides in anti-ageing skincare.
Some common signal peptides to look out for are:
- palmitoyl oligopeptide
- palmitoyl tripeptide-3/5
- palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl)
2. Carrier Peptides
Carrier peptides act as transporters for trace elements such as copper and manganese which are necessary for wound healing. They are often referred to as copper peptides.
They’re crucial in repairing the skin, regenerating it, and wound healing. They also have benefits in smoothing out skin texture and reducing scars because of their anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects.
They are one of the most commonly used peptides in skincare products, this is because copper is one of the main building blocks of amino acids and so copper is thought to be one of the best amino acids to use to mimic this.
3. Neuropeptides (Neurotransmitter Inhibitor Peptides)
Wrinkles and fine lines are a result of the underlaying muscle contraction. When we smile, laugh, squint or drown using our muscle the skin on the area is affected. Repeated movement over time leads to wrinkles. This is made worse by reduced collagen and elastin levels as we age. After the age of 25 our collagen levels begin to decrease.
Neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides have the ability to limit the communication between some cells in the skin that interupt with muscle movement. When facial muscles contract less , they stop wrinkles forming and worsening and soften lines. They are known to mimic the action botox, which actually works to stop muscle movement.
Look out for:
pentapeptide-3
acetyl hexapeptide-3/8( Argirelin)
Are Peptides Worth Using In Your Skincare Routine?
This really depends on what your skin concerns are but in short if you want a long term anti-ageing soloution, then yes they are worth using.
Here are some benefits of peptides in skincare:
- Stimulate collagen formation to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, with increased collagen, the skin is firmer, tighter, plumper, and more radiant.
- Peptides are regenerative, meaning they treat photodamaged skin and can reduce hyperpigmentation and uneven skintones.
- Neuropeptides (neurotransmitter inhibitor peptides) reduce wrinkles by limiting muscle contraction and so they smooth the skin texture by relaxing facial muscles.
- They are great for sensitive skin and a good option for anyone that cannot tolerate retinol.
How To Use Peptides
Peptide serums should be used after cleanser and before moisturising. Some peptides are also incorporated into moisturisers. If you are choosing this routine I suggest that you do not use a serum prior to this until you know that your skin wont’ react. It is never a good idea to start using multiple new products at once.
Peptides can be paired nicely with other anti-aging ingredients.
Retinols with peptides are a good combination. Retinol is the gold standard for anti-ageing with plenty of science-backed research to support it use. Peptides have far less evidence and research to support their use but it is widely agreed that have great anti-aging properties.
Retinols can sometimes be drying and irritating especially when starting out and peptides can help with these side effects.
It should be noted that retinol are not suitable for women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, in this case, peptides alone would be best.
For more on the benefits of retinol, especially in acne check out Retinol For Acne, The Complete Pharmacists Guide
What Are The Best Peptide Products?
The best peptide products are the ones that are in contact with your skin for the maximum length of time. Rather than a cleanser or mask, peptide creams or peptide serums are the better options.
Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream
The Drunk Elephant Protini Polypeptide Cream leaves the skin moisturized without causing greasiness, it has a lightweight feel so it goes nicely under makeup. Formulated with 9 signal peptides it is sure to leave your complexion plumper, firmer and refreshed.
KATE SOMERVILLE PEPTIDE K8 CREAM
KATE SOMERVILLE PEPTIDE K8 CREAM is powerhouse for anti-aging. It glides on to give an effortless glowy hydrated complexion. It provides a deep hydration whilst boosting the skin’s firmness. It also helps to make fine lines and wrinkles appear reduced.
It has a truly luxurious feel for pampered feeling skin.
THE ORDINARY MULTI-PEPTIDE + HA SERUM
The Ordinary has won its name in science-backed skincare with affordable prices. THE ORDINARY MULTI-PEPTIDE + HA SERUM is no exception for the brand’s great products. Packed with peptides this serum is formulated to combat signs of aging whilst giving a plump and hydrated feel to the skin. The perfect addition to any anti-aging skincare routine.