In this blog post, we will discuss everything you need to know about Retinol and how to get the most out of it without ruining your skin.
It is agreed by skin experts that Retinol is a truly transformative ingredient. Being one of the most researched ingredients for anti-aging, acne, and hyperpigmentation it is an all-rounder that has made a splash in the skincare world for good reason.
Although the fuss around Retinol is a well-deserved one, using it correctly and knowing what to expect is key to getting the most out of it.
To think that this powerhouse ingredient was once only available through dermatologists is hard to imagine with every skinfluencer raving about it and endless choices of over-the-counter brands offering it. With so many options out there it is not always easy, so read on for everything you need to know before trying it.
Retinol vs retinoids?
Retinol is a member of the retinoid family, which includes all vitamin A derivatives. Retinoid usually refers to prescription-only derivatives like tretinoin whereas retinol refers to over-the-counter forms.
Retinoids are considered by most skin experts and dermatologists to be the “gold standard” in active skincare. It is a well-researched ingredient with many studies showing its effectiveness for anti-aging, hyperpigmentation, and acne.
Other versions of retinoids that you may have come across include retinoic acid and retinaldehyde.
How does retinol work?
Retinol like all retinoids works by increasing the turnover of the skin cells, what does this mean?
It essentially speeds up the usual skin cycle that the body uses to make new skin cells resulting in basically new skin cells on the surface of our skins.
In the process of this it fires up collagen production thereby thickening your skin, evening out your complexion, smoothing fine lines and wrinkles, shrinking pores, preventing and fighting acne, and improving your skin texture.
What does retinol do?
Retinol is a great multi-tasker, making it a great addition to pretty much every skincare routine.
Retinol helps to boost collagen production and reduces cellular aging- this leads to smoothing out of fine lines and wrinkles, reduced pore size and better skin texture for a youthful radiant glow.
It’s also great for fighting acne, as it constantly renews the top layer of the skin and prevents pores from getting clogged.
In this way, it also reduces the appearance of acne scarring as the top layer of skin is renewed.
Does retinol have side effects?
Unfortunatley yes! Common side effects include peeling, dryness, flaking and sensivity and for those that are acne prone it can also lead to purging.
The key to reaping all the amazing retinol benefits is to use a formula that has enough of the active ingredient to give benefit but not so much that the side effects outweight the benefit.
Many brands of retinol contain such diluted quantities of retinol that they have no effect, whereas some brands too much making the side effects unbearable that they can’t be continued with.
As retinol renews the skin at a cellular level , it pushes the underlying skin cells upwards. This process causes the underlying impurities to surface which appers to be a bad breakout. This is know as purging- For more on this Check Out: GETTING RID OF ACNE: THE TRUTH ABOUT SKIN PURGING
It is sign that that your retinol is working and your skin is going through the process. Don’t interrupt it by picking at your pimples as this can lead to stubborn acne scars.
This process can last a few weeks and although it can feel distressing it is temporary. Plan your retinol journey in good time for upcoming events to avoid any horrible surprises.
The best retinol products use slow-release encapsulation delivery systems to minimize irritation.
How to use retinol
When starting to use retinol the key is to go slow and steady. If you are new to retinol, start by applying once per week, increasing the frequency of application to a couple of times per week until it can be comfortably tolerated daily.
Trying to apply too much too soon will lead to unmanageable side effects, this will require a break to be taken and then starting again once the skin barrier has been repaired.
Patience and consistency will go a long way when using retinol, expect to see results in 3 months.
Retinol is best used as part of your nighttime routine, this is because it prevents sun exposure causing sensitivity to freshly applied retinol but also because some forms of retinol break down under UV light, rendering the active ingredient ineffective but still giving you some of the side effects.
As with all active ingredients, the stage at which you apply it in your skincare routine is key. Retinol is best applied directly to freshly cleansed skin and followed by a hydrating moisturizer that contains no other active ingredients such as AHA’s, salicylic acid, or exfoliants.
Keeping your skin hydrated is essential when using retinol. Opt for hydrating ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides.
Although with a good retinol product, absorption should be rapid, you can leave 3 minutes between applying retinol and moisturizer.
Furthermore, a broad spectrum SPF of at least factor 30 is essential in reaping your retinol rewards. Physical ( or mineral) sunscreens are better than chemical sunscreens as they reflect UV rays rather than absorbing them. Look for ones with titanium oxide or zinc oxide. Check out this post on BEST SUNSCREENS FOR SENSITIVE SKIN
When to increase the strength of your retinol
Increasing the strength as your skins starts to adjust is important to continue to get all the amazing retinol benefits.
Determining if you are ready for the next strength of retinol depends on how well you are tolerating side effects and if you have reached your desired skin outcomes.
There is no fixed time frame when it comes to steppping up retinol, the goal is to achieve a fine balance between being able to tolerate side effects and achieving results, this comes down to having a healthy skin barrier. If you are peeling and flaking uncontrolably after a few weeks of using a low strength, increasing the strength would lead to further compromise of the skin barrier and eventually stop you being able to tolerate application. The aim is to step up in a way that is keeping the skin barrier happy to allow application every night comfortably.
When switching to a higher strength formula,often the skin goes through a transition period as it builds tolerance. You can make this manageble by applying it every other day initially and moisturisering both before and after essentially diluting the product- this called the sandwich method.
This can be repeted until you reach your skin goals or reach your skin tolerance.
Can I use retinol on sensitive skin?
It is sometimes thought by those with sensitive skin that cant use a retinol. It built up gradually with the right skincare rotuine, there is no reason that anyone strugglign with skin cant benefit from retinol.
One way is to use the ” sandwich method” as mentioned above whilst incorporating it very gradully into your routine.
Another way to build tolerance is to apply it for a few minutes and wash it off, repeat this by increasing the time left on the skin. Follow with a hydrating moisturiser.
How long does retinol take to work?
When you experience purging, flaking and in some cases, more visible hyperpigentation or wrinkles in the first couple of weeks, you may feel like qutting.
But if you go in with the expectation that these are all possibilities and that you will eventually come out on the other side it makes it alot easier to put up with side effects.
Usually 12 weeks of regular use is a good time to see some great results. So, don’t give up before 12 weeks but if you feel that your skin barrier is becoming too compromised give a break of a few days and stick to a mild skincare routine and then start again slowly.
So if you feel ready to start- check out these recommendations:
Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1 Serum is a great choice for beginners. Formulated with hyaluronic acid and soothing vitamin E, it helps to calm the skin. It also comes in a variety of strength making it easy to step up.
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Anti-Ageing Serum
La Roche-Posay Retinol B3 Anti-Ageing Serum is a lightweight serum which balances a low dose of retinol with vitamin B3 to soothe and strengthens the skin. Sensitive types should work it into their routine two nights per week, building up to more regular use in time.
3. DRUNK ELEPHANT A-PASSIONI RETINOL CREAM £49
This cream contains 1% Retinol alongside firming peptides and essential fatty acids, additionally it contains a fruit cocktail of extracts such as passionfruit, apricot, kale and winter cherry. So as well the benefits of Retinol it has got collagen boosting and youth protecting properties. Drunk Elephant is known for being “clean”. It is free from the following Suspicious 6 (essential oils, drying alcohols, silicones, chemical screens, fragrance/dyes and SLS)
