In this post we will discuss everything you need to know about using Retinol for acne and some dermatology recommended brands to try.
If you have been trying to find your perfect acne treatment since you were old enough to remember, then you probably are more than familiar with the usual acne fighting ingredients; Salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, AHA’s etc. Although these can be amazing acne fighting ingredients with medical evidence supporting their use, sometimes they just don’t show an improvement. Thats when stronger ingredients come into play-we are talking retinol.
How does Retinol help acne?
Retinol and retinoids are derivatives of Vitamin A. Retinols are usually milder and less harsh on the skin, they are available over the counter whereas retinoids are usually a stronger version that require a prescription.
Retinol play a part in the turnover of skin cells, they essentially work from the inside out unlike other common acne fighting ingredients like salicylic that work on the surface of the skin. By increasing the turn over of skin cells it basically means new skin is being formed faster- this means dead skin cells that cause clogging and worsen acne are being removed and it helps to keep pores clear meaning your other skin care products are more likely to work as there is a better chance of them actually interacting with skin cells.
How to use products that contain Retinol
Many acne treatment plans include retinol products in combination with either benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid. These have to be used together with caution as they can all be very drying and can actually reduce the effectiveness of retinol. It is best to use retinol at night- when your skin is not exposed to sunlight and salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide in the morning (always with SPF!)
When can I expect to see results?
As mentioned retinol increases skin cell turnover. Typically this process is 21-28 days but with correct retinol use it increased to around 7-14 days. So it can take a minimum of two weeks for your skin to adjust to the retinol after which you will start seeing results. Typically it can take six to twelve weeks to see a benefit when you look in the mirror.
When using Retinol initially you can expect to see redness, irritation and flaking-this is normal.
For fast results, the vitamin A ingredient needs to be as close to its active form which is called retinol acid -this is what you’ll find in prescription retinoid creams. Over the counter options are further from this form and therefore take longer to work (but are also gentler on the skin)
The weakest version is retinyl palmitate. It is a good option for those hoping to try retinol but have struggled or are worried to do so due having very sensitive skin.
What are the side effects of Retinol?
Common side effects including flaking, dryness and redness. This is because new skin cells are being produced and it is something that does improve with regular use- patience and consistency is key!
You may also experience more breakouts, it is common for acne to worsen before it gets better- but it is reassuring to know that this is part of the process of clear skin long term. New breakouts occur as skin cells turnover new clogs rise to the top. Once the comedones are expelled out of the skin their is likely to be improvement.
They key to minimising side effects is to start slow and build up. You can start by using retinol three times a week and moisturising before and after. The goal is to train your skin to be able to tolerate retinol every night.
What strength Retinol do I need for acne?
Unless you have been prescribed a higher strength, it is best to use formulas that contain less than 1% retinol. When starting out you may want to try 0.25% and then increase this to 0.5% and then 1%. When you skin is tolerating a particular strength you can consider increasing it -usually this will be every two to four weeks.
A great option is Medik8 that have varying strengths
Another option for newbie retinol users is La Roche-Posay Redermic [R] Anti-Ageing Concentrate. It contains a mere 0.3% making it a good option for people with sensitive skin too.
How much Retinol should you apply?
A pea sizes amount should be sufficient when spread evenly on the face nose and cheeks. A thin layer can also be used on the neck and hands.
What is the best Retinol for acne ?
Below we have handpicked some of the best brands of retinol. Bare in mind the strengths as they strength you will need will vary depending on sensitivity, past retinol use and severity of acne as mentioned above.
1. THE ORDINARY RETINOL SERUM 0.5% IN SQUALANE 30ML £4.90
The Ordinary has built a reputation for itself to delivery results at affordable prices and the Retinol 0.5% in squalene is no exception. This special form of vitamin A has shown to minimise fine lines, fight acne, reduce pigmentation, revitalise skin and make its overall appearance fresher and more youthful!
2. MEDIK8 INTELLIGENT RETINOL 10TR 15ML£45
Medik8 aims to make products with powerful results yet simple regimes, this formula is supercharged with vitamin E for antioxidant protection and increased stability. It is formulated with squalane for extra hydration, climbazole to enhance the effects of vitamin A and it’s ‘Time Release Technology’ to gradually penetrate its way through deeper layers of the skin while you sleep- It is formulated to be a winner. The “Time Release Technology” ensures all the benefits of vitamin A without overwhelming or irritating the skin — leaving it feeling hydrated and soft. Excess melanin production is reduced, and skin is left looking even and youthful. It contains 1% retinol meaning it is Medik8’s highest-strength formula — perfect for those who are used to retinol and are ready to intensify treatment.
3. DRUNK ELEPHANT A-PASSIONI RETINOL CREAM £49
This cream contains 1% Retinol alongside firming peptides and essential fatty acids, additionally it contains a fruit cocktail of extracts such as passionfruit, apricot, kale and winter cherry. So as well the benefits of Retinol it has got collagen boosting and youth protecting properties. Drunk Elephant is known for being “clean”. It is free from the following Suspicious 6 (essential oils, drying alcohols, silicones, chemical screens, fragrance/dyes and SLS)
4. Versed Press Restart Gentle Retinol Serum £20
A winning combination of encapsulated Retinol alongside Arophira and Bakuchiol works to stimulate your skin with minimal side-effects, so you can enjoy the benefits without the reactivity or redness. With the addition of anti-inflammatories and antioxidants to boost your complexion while reducing the risk of skin rebelling, this ultra-light serum is quickly absorbed to protect and revitalise. It is perfect for newbie retinol users and those ready to start the journey to perfect skin! And if that wasn’t enough it is vegan and cruelty-free.
5. Sunday Riley A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum £100
One of the most bio-available forms of retinol on the market that can be obtained without a prescription! A+ High-Dose Retinoid Serum is a pro-strength formula (not for anyone new to retinol) It delivers some serious results. It is a combination of 5% retinoid ester, 1% liposomal-encapsulated retinol and 0.5% blue-green algae ( this has natural retinoid-alternative properties)
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