Have you ever found yourself shopping for serums and creams and wondering what actually are all these different acids? Why do I need them and what will they do ? A lot of them seem to claim to do a similar thing so here I will give you a breakdown of some of the common ones so you can decide what you might need depending on your skin concerns.
You may have come across AHAs and BHAs. These stand for Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids and their role is to exfoliate the skin by removing dead skin cells. One is not neccesarily better than the other it all depends on the underlying skin concerns and issues.
Ascorbic Acid
Ascorbic acid or L-Ascorbic acid is a version of vitamin C, it has antioxidant benefits. It can be used by anyone looker for a brighter complexion and it helps to stimulate collagen. It also acts as a barrier to everyday pollutants and protects the skin, it has amazing anti-inflammatory properties. Check out my post The Truth Behind The Effects of Vitamin C on Your Skin.
Some of my favourite products include Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, £99.90 and The Ordinary Vitamin C Suspension 30% in Silicone, £5.75
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid has an anti-inflammatory effect on the skin meaning it reduces swelling and redness which can occur in acne prone skin. It also stops a protein called keratin producing which can block pores and contribute to acne and breakouts. It is also suitable for those who suffer with rosacea as well as those who have dark patches in certain areas (hyperpigmentation).
Give The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% £5.50 a go, it is the best formula I have tried, it feels soft on the skin and is the best value for money too.
Citric Acid
Citric acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA). It is one of the milder AHA’s and less acidic, it is found naturally in citrus fruits ( you may have guessed from the name). It has anti-aging properties as it is full of antioxidants which means less fine lines and wrinkles. It also works as an exfoliator meaning it can be used regularly for skin concerns such as hyperpigmentation and dark spots, when applied to the skin it removes dead skin cells and increases the speed of new skin cells being formed.
Ferulic Acid
This is found in the seeds and cells walls of oranges and apples, It helps to maintain the integrity of skin which makes sense if it found in the protecting layer of fruit! It works well with other anti oxidants and helps to boost them that’s why you will tend to find it in combination with other ingredients like vitamin C and E. It can help to prevent fine lines and wrinkles.
Try Korean Skin Care K Beauty 20% Vitamin C Hyaluronic Acid Serum + CE Ferulic Acid £32.92
The Dr Dennis Gross Skincare Ferulic/Retinol Wrinkle Recovery Overnight Serum £76.55 is amazing value for money too it will leave your skin feeling renewed and firm by the morning when used overnight.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is another AHA, it has the smallest molecular weight amongst all the AHAs so penetrates the skin more easily. It is found naturally in sugar cane and other citrus fruits, it is amazing for exfoliation as it removes the outermost layer of dead cells from the complexion in a gentle way meaning brighter skin. Glycolic Acid is often used to treat scarring, discoloration and fights the signs of aging and if that wasn’t enough it also is known for preventing pores from getting blocked.
Try NIP+FAB Extreme Glycolic Fix Liquid Glow £9.95, every night and your skin will feel like new.
Hyaluronic Acid
This is the ingredient that is actually found in lip fillers that gives that full, plump look after a treatment. It is found in many moisturizers and serums because it is ideal for stopping the signs of ageing. The chemical structure is amazing at retaining water meaning when applied to the skin it will look plump, wrinkle free and soft.
Try SkinCeuticals HA Intensifier £83.30. It really does what it says and leaves the skin feeling young and refreshed, it is worth every penny.
A good alternative would be L’Oreal Paris Hydra Genius Hyaluronic Acid + Aloe Liquid Moisturiser for Normal to Combination Skin,£7.26. It sits smoothly on the skin, smells amazing and allows makeup to sit on flawlessly if used before applying foundation.
Kojic Acid
Kojic acid inhibits the formation of melanin; which is responsible for the pigement in our skins, because kojic acid blocks the melanin it can have a skin lightening effect. For a lighter and brighter skin tone try the Mario Badescu Whitening Mask £19.95
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid has moisturizing properties and can be used for sensitive skin as it is amongst one of the milder acids, it helps fight signs of ageing, helps to produce collagen and firms the skin.
Try using The Ordinary Lactic Acid 10% + Hyaluronic Acid Exfoliating Serum £8.69
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic Acid is a gentler alternative to glycolic acid due to the difference in their particle size, it is often found in chemical peels and is known for its lightening, brightening and collagen boosting properties. It is also one of the better choices for those with sensitive skin as it doesn’t penetrate the skin as deeply as some of the other acids like glycolic.
Give The Ordinary Mandelic Acid 10% + HA £11.01 a go for at least two weeks for a brighter complexion.
Oleic Acid
Oleic acid is the go to for anyone with dry skin, it has the ability to restore moisture without clogging up pores and causing pimples. It is a fatty acid that is naturally found in animals and vegetables. It can also be used for skin condition such as eczema and psosriasis. Olive oil is rich in this.
Salicylic Acid
You might have seen DIY fixes for spots and breakout that involve sticking a crushed aspirin on your face. That is because salicyclic acid is the chemical name for aspirin. It is well known for it’s anti-inflammatory properties and is the go to for acne prone skin.
Try NIP+FAB Salicylic Fix Concentrate Extreme 2% £15.00 or Mario badescu drying lotion £26.86, its formula dries up pimples and spots and also contains calamine which is the treatment given to stop itching in children with chicken pox.
Caution
Never Mix acids as it can results in extreme irritation.
Avoid using other ingredients such as retinol and niacinamide amongst others
The risk of irritation increases with increased strengths.
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